British Services Dhaulagiri Medical Research Expedition 2016


BSDMRE 2016 is a British Services expedition to the Dhaulagiri region of Nepal March - May 2016. The Main team aimed to climb Dhaulagiri (8,167m), the 7th highest peak in the world, in a testing and challenging Alpine climbing style. There was also a High Altitude Development Team that aimed to climb Tukuche (6,920m) and Dhampus (6,012m) accompanied by the Main Team, and a Junior Team that aimed to complete the Dhaulagiri Circuit and climb two 6,000m peaks, Dhampus and Mukot.

In addition eight Medical Research Trek Teams completed the challenging Dhaulagiri Circuit, each team trekking several days apart. During this time they visited three research tents at differing altitudes, taking part in the most comprehensive medical research into altitude undertaken so far. The trek teams came from different units throughout the British Services.

In the event, the Junior Team attained their objectives, climbing both Dhampus and Mukot (becoming only the second team to climb Mukot and the first British team).

A number of the Main Team (who were climbing, unusually, without oxygen), having summitted Dhampus, later attained Dhaulagiri high camp of 7,500m. Unfortunately bad weather meant that attempts to reach the summit had to be abandoned.

As the expedition nears its end, it is clear that the medical information gathered and the research done on altitude sickness is likely to be priceless.  We now need to wait until all the results have been collated and medical conclusions reached.

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Jan Short

Jan Short - Executive Director

Mountaineering, Expedition Logistics, Senior Management Team
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